Conserving energy is a way to help cut carbon emissions and save money but on a boat it takes on an overriding importance; and that is because energy is finite. You are either bringing it with you, stored in the form of Diesel Fuel to be converted, or harvesting energy from the Sun and Wind as you may.
Alternative Energy will be pursued but at this moment part of the big picture is to reduce reliance upon it by not wasting. Observe that the boat has a dozen or more light bulb consumers. These are 12v single filament bayonet mount style which are relatively cheap and serve well but at they are hungry. The old school bulb on the left squanders 15 watts. The new solution pictured right is an LED using only 1.5 watts for an equivalent light output. There are even red LEDs (vision preserving for night ops) and .8 watts with reduced lumens.
More minutia: It only took the better part of a day to properly source this retro-fit. There are quite a few styles, sizes, and types from which to select. The Sea Dog dome lights utilize a double contact base for + and – not to be confused with the automotive setup which uses the base itself for a negative ground and the double contacts for dual filaments. The challenge was to procure a globe that fit the lense fixture and a socket that fit into the ba15d base as designed.
It all adds up, but this small effort will reduce the need for additional capacity. I suppose this brass wick oil lamp might be the outstanding supreme fix.
The simple engine driven charging system onboard Talmid was designed to serve a lead acid starting battery. With rated output of 12v and 30 AMPS, and as the sole source of energy, the Hitachi alternator is also called upon to recharge a 300 Ah capacity house battery bank. When the house bank is depleted, discharged after a day under sail for example, the little alternator is overtaxed which manifests in long charging times and a heavy strain load on its 3/8″ drive belt. Spares are carried because at some point the belt will inevitably perish, possibly at a critical! moment. Monitoring its condition and becoming mechanically adept at adjusting proper tension is crucial. Belt tensioning is achieved via adjustment bolts on the alternator mounting brackets. All other pulleys are fixed in their positions. Measuring belt slack while flexing the belt with a finger means the procedure is rather subjective. Too loose results in slippage which translates to premature wear. Adjusted too tightly and the added stresses will accelerate [water pump] bearing wear. The image shows the original belt drive system on the old Yanmar 3QM30. It is driven by a 6″ crankshaft pulley [lower]. The pulley for the water pump cooling system [upper] and the alternator completes the triangle.
There must be a better way. Indeed. On order is a higher output 100 AMP alternator, which is better sized to match existing battery capacity. Even more load for the feeble V belt you say? No. Central to this upgrade is a new serpentine drive belt system. Serpentine is a descriptor derived from modern automotive application as the belt snakes to and from numerous driven accessories in one continuous loop. This is a simplification from early days when an engine had several belts. A serpentine belt has ribs and grooves that track precisely in machined pulleys and significantly increased width will enhance grip surface area.
Another modification, to complete this installation, will be the addition of an updated voltage regulator. The original Hitachi has an internal regulator which supplies a constant output of approximately 14volts. This is suitable for lead acid batteries but harmful to Absorbent Glass Mat batteries over the long term. AGM batteries require extra care and feeding in order to insure longevity. A 3 step charge algorithm calls for 14 v during the bulk charging phase but also includes an absorption and float stage. These included stages scale back the voltage and allow the AGM to be restored to full capacity. Long life preserved.
This is the first step toward a robust energy system because as the sole source, it is a single failure point. Alternative energy will provide redundancy. Available and useful are Wind and or Solar. In any event, I believe that outfitting with the new alternator scheme will go along way toward solving previous weakness while eliminating the belt dust nuisance and shredded rubber breakdown.
“MOG” is material other than grapes. i.e. stems, leaves,
The harvester machine [ Korvan 3016 ] straddles a row and utilizes a set of longitudinal Nylon Picking Rods, Metal Rod Holders and Wings to shake the entire vine. In this fashion the grapes are separated from the vine and fall by gravity onto a cupped conveyor. Along the journey to toward the hopper gondola which collects the harvest for transport, MOG is extracted by powerful fans and jettisoned overboard. The entire procession moves along at 2.67 mph
Uncontained fuel is volatile and a safety issue but there are degrees. Here is a list in order of seriousness:
Gusher – shut off, get clear, notify the EPA
Oozer – flow in a very gradual way, No Smoking!
Leakage – drip drip drip, a puddle will form, have a Fire Bottle close by
Seepage – see leakage, a nuisance, a puddle forms only after some delay
Weepage – localized moist or damp area, could be deferred… if you feel lucky
Sometimes Seepage will, overtime, fix itself and become Weepage. My fuel pump, when off, was the latter. Containment was not difficult, however when operating [pressurized] there was definitely a leak. The old seals had become dry and hardened from disuse, decay, and exposure to old gasoline and would no longer stem the tide.
Happily there is a restorative kit available though billed as a solution for the models W113 [Pagoda], W111 [Fintail], and certain W108 models using the “Long Style” pump. Mine was an early 1st version and I was confident that it would be suitable.
exploded diagram (no pun intended)
The way to find out was to order the package, disassemble, compare old parts with the new replacement and find out. The many pieces included 6 “O” rings. These would solve the escaping fuel problem. Also included were new shaft bearings and motor brushes. After 50 years / 125,000 miles use these original wear items had served their purpose. A tutorial explained the inner workings and was invaluable. The method for keeping fuel from going past the shaft housing was a clever bit: To seal the shaft to the pump housing there is a black plastic-type insert with what looks to be a neoprene collar that fits into the opening of the housing. It has a flat surface that matches a flat surface on the Bellows seal. The Bellows Seal is called a “Mechanical Seal” or “Slide Ring Seal”. A small O-Ring seals the Bellows onto the shaft. The Bellows Seal sits on the O-Ring and rotates with the shaft held in position by the locating washer. … and so on and so forth.
I merely had to follow the instructions and was only flummoxed when I compared my [removed] washer with that of the cup shaped washer from the picture tutorial. They didn’t look the same; not one bit. I rationalized that it was my 1st gen design and at this point it was deep thought and analysis to achieve understanding. The new bearings were sealed type and so I left the little cup washer out completely — thinking it superfluous. I didn’t want to alter the shaft [shim] height orientation but I deduced that its absence would not and even became convinced that it could have been a detriment.
Still, having a piece left over after reassembly is unnerving and leaving it on the bench was a leap of faith. Fingers crossed there.
Last task was to dress the commutator. Wear and tear had built a ridge of copper, or rather a valley from the carbon brush(s) track. I knocked that down ever so gently and precisely using a fingernail file not wanting to booger the armature.
how it was
Finally, the unit was complete (excepting the confused washer) and was buttoned up and re-installed. A twist of the Ignition Key would determine success or failure. I poured fresh fuel into the tank checked for Seepage. So far so good. Jumped in the driver’s seat and turned the key. The pump at this point should and did run; purring quietly. Most importantly, no Leakage. Hoorah! and again roadworthy.
Too young for a driver’s license but mechanically inclined and anxious to be involved in things auto-motive I was thrilled to have a Go Kart. I spent many hours in the garage wrenching, tinkering, and learning mechanics. The main excitement of course was the driving. Neither machine nor I were approved on regular streets obviously so a fav venue was the Kerman Kartways. A 1/3 mile road course with many tight turns, a broad easy banked sweeper and of course a front straightaway created delight.
My *new* Kart was acquired from an answered ad in the local classifieds. Current owner was away on military duty and his family charged to sell it for him. The selling representative knew little about the particulars but it was obvious that it had been a race kart in its heyday and I had visions therefore of attaining great speeds. There was no test drive; just assurances that it ran and nearly $300 was exchanged.
The frame (circa 1963 or ’64) by Kavalla I promptly repainted in Competition Orange. Chrome & Neoprene Steering Wheel. Foam padded and naugahyde upholstery. Aluminium floor pan. There were some exotic bits such as magnesium spyder-type wheels with Carlisle Slicks, and a disc brake on the aluminium live axle chain directly driven by a hot little MC9 McCulloch. This engine was a 2 stroke designed for power with light weight. Since there wasn’t a clutch for ease of starting, weight mattered. The procedure was to aim front wheels in the desired direction, Lift the back end high in the air with one hand on rear frame rail and the other guiding and pushing on the seat frame top. While jogging at a good clip you would then lower the back wheels onto the tarmac and jump in. The forward momentum and sudden weight on wheels was enough to spin the engine and with a quick stab to the throttle and possibly a deft hand [as choke] over carb intake it would ‘catch’ and away you’d go.
It was necessary to continually adjust fuel / air mixture ratio for prevailing conditions and max performance. This was achieved by screw in/out needle valve on the carburetor. Alternatively, fine tuning could be done while underway. Shifting your body partially and reaching back with fingertips to tweek was common place. If too rich, there was severe power loss. This adjustment was crucial because too lean and piston and cylinder would overheat and eventually fail for lack of lubrication (oil is mixed with fuel). The adjustment per the manual was to set at 1 1/4 turns open initially as a baseline.
This didn’t work for my application and I was perplexed. The engine would only run properly starting [lean] at about 1/2 turn. This was unsettling because I fully understood the risk of sticking the motor. I only realized years later what the seller failed to communicate: The carburetor had been [oversized] jetted for racing alcohol. Alcohol gives a power gain but at increased flowage. So, with the carb set up in this manner running regular pump gas was a downer. Had I run the special fuel instead of gasoline, I could have flown!
Just as well probably. Speed equates to risk. Still, it was a ball of fun in a helmet.
Something was amiss as 2nd was difficult to engage without clashing and then it would pop-out of gear under load. Poorly adjusted linkage? Bad syncro? Big overhaul?
remains of bushing material
None of the above. Inspection of the shift lever arm and yoke revealed that the rope-like material originally used for bushing had perished. The shift lever bearing (#7 in the Fig.) was sloppy and wobbly loose in its retaining bracket and no longer capable of fulfilling its function as a pivot axis. Fresh bushings were sourced.
This was a bit of a challenge because the original gearbox with Hydrak fluid coupling and a steering column mounted shifter had been abandoned early on as problematic and difficult to maintain. Hydrak was an early response to the American export market that expected and got automatic transmissions in their higher end car models. This answer to clutchless shifting (1940’s technology by comparison to fully automatic) was transitional and some owners regressed to the more robust standard (fully manual) shift option.
The retrofit parts list would have been extensive and since the conversion occurred almost 50 years ago, I had no idea which parts were used. I assumed that some may have come from a donor car. The clue was the 3 bolt pattern in the shift bearing retaining brackets pictured. Browsing parts manuals of similar vintage models I deduced (correctly) that the shifting linkage was transplanted from the type 190 SL.
new replacement bushings are nylon
Fig. 26-1/9
the shift lever with bearing surface exposed
The two sandwich halves now firmly grasp the shift lever bearing and driveability is restored.
Despite having gone completely flat during many years of storage and with rims pinching sidewall, they took air and still managed to hold inflation.
They last hit the road in 1988 and had been resting on rims, leaves, and dusty cement floor in dry rot neglect.
As you can see the old tires were aged. Visible in the image are sidewall checks and splits. In other areas the tread has separated from the tire casing.
NOS tires were sourced and shipped. The originals delivered with the car as new would have been the optional weißwandbereifung [white-walls] that were in vogue in the USA market during that era. White-walls are exceedingly popular for collectors but I consider them an overly used gussification; (ditto for continental tire kit installations, added rear fender skirts, and dangly things from the inside rearview mirror).
Refinished in correct semi-gloss black
This Michelin “X” tube type radial is period correct and to my taste an authentic european sporting look.
A statement of frustration blurted by my Father when attempting a household repair. I think his meager tool box consisted of pliers, crescent wrench, hammer, pipe wrench and a couple of screwdrivers and bailing wire; so, when the odd DIY task such as connecting the new dishwasher came along his kit was lacking. The lament always signaled impending defeat and preceded the interruptive trip to the hardware store.
Flash forward. I have a rather massive 14mm Allen Wrench used to remove the hex pattern oil fill/drain plugs on my vintage car. This tool allows me to service fluid level on both the transmission and differential. Almost. It turns out that this trusty wrench is too bulky to access the fill plug on the rear axle. The tool won’t physically fit between the plug and the adjacent gas tank. Consternation follows. What was the method to pull this plug? What tool did I use before and where is it now? Had I ever actually serviced this item? My rolling chest of drawers, while hardly complete, is still a far cry from the random assortment in my Dad’s day. Still, after rummaging through, I realized that I didn’t own the proper tool; a short straight hex key on a 3/8″ socket.
Instead of halting the operation, getting cleaned up, and driving to the Auto Parts House (the proper thing) but in grand gesture toward Dad’s way — I improvised.
Staring thoughtfully at the internal hex pattern in the plug it occurred to me that a hex head bolt (male) might just be the ticket. 14mm is nearly equivalent to .5″ and my salvaged supply of old bolts might offer a match. I eyeballed a handful of candidates and then began to measure in a more precise way with Calipers. A lag bolt with head measuring .56″ was too great a span, another sample, inadequate. I didn’t want to louse up the female end of the plug. A bolt head that was too small would surely strip it.
An old carriage bolt turned up as suitable and with vice-grips pliers for leverage I was able to cleanly extract the unmanageable plug.
Exasperation avoided and a run to the store annoyance averted, when next surfing Amazon I will order: “The Right Tool”
Streamed live on May 23, 2016
Dean Lynn Cooley, Senior Associate Dean Pamela Schirmeister, and various faculty host the Yale Graduate School of Arts and Sciences Commencement Diploma Ceremony
Observe that the boat has a dozen or more light bulb consumers. These are 12v single filament bayonet mount style which are relatively cheap and serve well but at they are hungry. The old school bulb on the left squanders 15 watts. The new solution pictured right is an LED using only 1.5 watts for an equivalent light output. There are even red LEDs (vision preserving for night ops) and .8 watts with reduced lumens.
