rolled and spat out

Surfs up! I tried to catch the BIG ONE this afternoon and got beat up. I was a little late on the timing. The wave made an abrupt break and I fell over the top. Luckily I was spun broadside and thereby avoided the dreaded break-your-neck-head stand, but ended up body slammed on the shallow seabed just the same. The final insult before being held down, pummeled, and then raked across the rough sand by its turbulence. I have tender ribs and skin removed from my arm (roadrash) to vouch for my performance. Oh! Did I not mention that when I came up for a look around, the LEASH tethered to my boogie board (the other end is velcroed to my wrist) had somehow taken a dally around my neck? Talk about crossed up. Mother nature must have been ROTFL.

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