Uncontained fuel is volatile and a safety issue but there are degrees. Here is a list in order of seriousness:

1. Gusher – shut off, get clear, notify the EPA
2. Oozer – flow in a very gradual way, No Smoking!
3. Leakage – drip drip drip, a puddle will form, have a Fire Bottle close by
4. Seepage – see leakage, a nuisance, a puddle forms only after some delay
5. Weepage – localized moist or damp area, could be deferred… if you feel lucky

Sometimes Seepage will, overtime, fix itself and become Weepage. My fuel pump, when off, was the latter. Containment was not difficult, however when operating [pressurized] there was definitely a  leak. The old seals had become dry and hardened from disuse, decay, and exposure to old gasoline and would no longer stem the tide.

Happily there is a restorative kit available though billed as a solution for the models W113 [Pagoda], W111 [Fintail], and certain W108 models using the “Long Style” pump. Mine was an early 1st version and I was confident that it would be suitable.

The way to find out was to order the package, disassemble, compare old parts with the new replacement and find out. The many pieces included 6 “O” rings. These would solve the escaping fuel problem. Also included were new shaft bearings and motor brushes.  After 50 years / 125,000 miles use these original wear items had served their purpose.  A tutorial explained the inner workings and was invaluable. The method for keeping fuel from going past the shaft housing was a clever bit: To seal the shaft to the pump housing there is a black plastic-type insert with what looks to be a neoprene collar that fits into the opening of the housing. It has a flat surface that matches a flat surface on the Bellows seal. The Bellows Seal is called a “Mechanical Seal” or “Slide Ring Seal”. A small O-Ring seals the Bellows onto the shaft. The Bellows Seal sits on the O-Ring and rotates with the shaft held in position by the locating washer. … and so on and so forth.

I merely had to follow the instructions and was only flummoxed when I compared my [removed] washer with that of the cup shaped washer from the picture tutorial. They didn’t look the same; not one bit. I rationalized that it was my 1st gen design and at this point it was deep thought and analysis to achieve understanding. The new bearings were sealed type and so I left the little cup washer out completely — thinking it superfluous. I didn’t want to alter the shaft [shim] height orientation but I deduced that its absence would not and even became convinced that it could have been a detriment.

Still, having a piece left over after reassembly is unnerving and leaving it on the bench was a leap of faith.  Fingers crossed there.

Last task was to dress the commutator. Wear and tear had built a ridge of copper, or rather a valley from the carbon brush(s) track. I knocked that down ever so gently and precisely using a fingernail file not wanting to booger the armature.

Finally, the unit was complete (excepting the confused washer) and was buttoned up and re-installed. A twist of the Ignition Key would determine success or failure. I poured fresh fuel into the tank checked for Seepage. So far so good. Jumped in the driver’s seat and turned the key. The pump at this point should and did run; purring quietly. Most importantly, no Leakage. Hoorah! and again roadworthy.

Something was amiss as 2nd was difficult to engage without clashing and then it would pop-out of gear under load. Poorly adjusted linkage? Bad syncro? Big overhaul?

None of the above. Inspection of the shift lever arm and yoke revealed that the rope-like material originally used for bushing had perished. The shift lever bearing (#7 in the Fig.) was sloppy and wobbly loose in its retaining bracket and no longer capable of fulfilling its function as a pivot axis. Fresh bushings were sourced.

This was a bit of a challenge because the original gearbox with Hydrak fluid coupling and a steering column mounted shifter had been abandoned early on as problematic and difficult to maintain.  Hydrak was an early response to the American export market that expected and got automatic transmissions in their higher end car models.  This answer to clutchless shifting (1940’s technology by comparison to fully automatic) was transitional and some owners regressed to the  more robust standard (fully manual) shift option.

The retrofit parts list would have been extensive and since the conversion occurred almost 50 years ago, I had no idea which parts were used. I assumed that some may have come from a donor car. The clue was the 3 bolt pattern in the  shift bearing retaining brackets pictured. Browsing  parts manuals of similar vintage models I deduced (correctly) that the shifting linkage was transplanted from the type 190 SL.

The two sandwich halves now firmly grasp the shift lever bearing and driveability is restored.

A statement of frustration blurted by my Father when attempting a household repair. I think his meager tool box consisted of pliers, crescent wrench, hammer,  pipe wrench and a couple of screwdrivers and bailing wire; so, when the odd DIY task such as connecting the new dishwasher came along his kit was lacking. The lament always signaled impending defeat and preceded the interruptive trip to the hardware store.

Flash forward. I have a rather massive 14mm Allen Wrench used to remove the hex pattern oil fill/drain plugs on my vintage car.  This tool allows me to service fluid level on both the transmission and differential. Almost. It turns out that this trusty wrench is too bulky to access the fill plug on the rear axle.  The tool won’t physically fit between the plug and the adjacent gas tank. Consternation follows. What was the method to pull this plug? What tool did I use before and where is it now? Had I ever actually serviced this item? My rolling chest of drawers, while hardly complete, is still a far cry from the random assortment in my Dad’s day. Still, after rummaging through, I realized that I didn’t own the proper tool; a short straight hex key on a 3/8″ socket.

Instead of halting the operation, getting cleaned up, and driving to the Auto Parts House (the proper thing) but in grand gesture toward Dad’s way — I improvised.

Staring thoughtfully at the internal hex pattern in the plug it occurred to me that a hex head bolt (male) might just be the ticket. 14mm is nearly equivalent to .5″ and my salvaged supply of old bolts might offer a match. I eyeballed a handful of candidates and then began to measure in a more precise way with Calipers.  A lag bolt with head measuring .56″ was too great a span, another sample, inadequate. I didn’t want to louse up the female end of the plug. A bolt head that was too small would surely strip it.

An old carriage bolt turned up as suitable and with vice-grips pliers for leverage I was able to cleanly extract the unmanageable plug.

Exasperation avoided and a run to the store annoyance averted, when next surfing Amazon I will order: “The Right Tool”