All posts by cs

Ponton Door Sill Restoration

cars,

Old cars had running boards. A vestige from this bygone era, the modern car door sill is nothing more than a decorative piece to prevent one’s shoes from scuffing the body painted entry threshold. This plate is likely to be of plastic assembly with the make or logo embossed. On the exterior side is the tarmac and the other side is the carpet. When shut the door covers the sill plate.

The door sill/scuff plate on ‘Ponton‘ era Mercedes-Benz were not that far removed from the old running boards. They could be described as internal running boards as they were enveloped by body when the closed door overlapped them. They are really not wide enough to stand upon nor were they so intended but there they are welcoming gateway to driver and passenger. From the illustration below observe that the vertical chrome trim plate and an aluminium surround piece serves to offer scuff protection. The flat sill spans between them.

perished mat

The original rubber sill (above) is aged and brittle. It has seen better days. The refurbishment project was initiated some years back (pre-internet) where it stalled due to non-availability of replacement parts. Recently, I began the search anew. The problem is that there is no longer much demand for this style ribbed rubber material. What I could find was in black only or some egregious industrial offering. The pursuit picked up when I found “grey mat for Mercedes”. ‘Imported’ from the limited description sounded promising but the bulk size and color were not and were likely for some later model.

new mat in place

Finally, success! An outfit in Germany called Niemöller Ersatzteile für Mercedes-Benz Veteranen seemed to have what I sought. I ordered their self-described hellbeige ribbed rubber with high expectations and was not let down. The material was rolled in bulk so a paper template had to be drawn and the mat trimmed. The new piece was cemented down after the fasteners removed and the shiny bits cleared for access.

Factory labor intensive, I counted 15 individual screws for each door entry (for which holes also had to be drilled). I don’t suppose that they had bots or even electric screwdrivers to speed that process. A contrast in manufacturing technique, today’s sill plate application must take the assembly line person mere seconds to snap in to place.

Headlight Cover Restoration

cars

Full disclosure: The Before picture was taken indoors whereas the After is using natural light, thus the paint color variation.

Opaque / Clear

The Zuffenhausen factory specified a tough clear UV protective coating which has performed well for the past 13 years of exposure. However it’s a tough environment and these lense covers are only plastic afterall.

A polishing kit from 3M was purchased to rejuvenate the current cloudy finish. Using my low speed electric drill, the supplied buffer wheel attachment and abrasive media, pits and scratches were incrementally removed. I deviated from the prescribed and used some 320 grit to begin with. This made quick work of the original factory coating, totally removing it. Naked uncoated, stages of number 500, 800, 3000 (wet) progressed. Finally the kit included a liquid rubbing compound that completed the goal of clarity. The surface is now quite smooth.

Routine application of a formulated polish with water resistant polymers such as PlastX or toothpaste (!) should offer protection from this point onward.

Short Trip

boats

What was meant to be a grand outing, taking family on a Saturday sailboat ride turned out to be a “3 hour tour” instead. No not island shipwrecked; we all returned to the dock intact — but not before an encounter with a dredger train of barges, a soft grounding, a crab pot entanglement, engine breakdown, 2 rescue tows and a mangled boat hook! It was a chain of events. One thing upon another, and then another and then…

It’s never opportune timing to have mechanical failure but in this case we were very close to home. However, the marina is tight quarters and their rules forbid maneuvering under sail anyway. So we got professionally alongside towed on the hip. Here was the culprit:

Riser – ruptures after years in service

I found that this is actually a common failure. It is unsuspecting before it happens because the heavy iron casting rusts from the inside. There may be light surface corrosion on the outside or even shiny paint hiding what lurks. (A prudent Sailor will think to change this part out before it expires.) The failure symptom was a marked change in engine tone. Raising the hood revealed noxious black fumes and water pumping into the bilge. Gnarly.

The exhaust mixing elbow (aka Riser) is a short length special pipe between the engine manifold and the heavy black hose clamped on the lower end. Hot gasses are joined with cooling water and delivered under pressure of combustion toward being muffled and
properly discharged overboard.

Spiffy Replacement

This new custom fabrication is stainless steel and will give good endurance. Should be good to go! I only need now to convince my guests to come along and try boating again. Please come back!

PU

cars

Ordinarily the N2, O2, H2O, CO2, CO, NOx… and other gases exit the tailpipe but driver complaints indicated that exhaust smells were entering the interior.

It was somewhat of a mystery because noxious odors would only manifest after the engine had been operating for awhile (warmed-up) and only when the vehicle was stationary (idling at a stop sign).  Common deduction was that the emissions were drawn in through the fresh air ventilation system; so possibly emanating from under-hood? DIY Forum searches revealed no symptomatic similarities unfortunately, but it was revealed that not all exhaust is directed to the tailpipe at least not immediately.

Inner workings to help achieve automobile emissions standards include things like exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) which is exactly as it sounds. A portion of spent gas is returned to the combustion chamber to act as absorbents of combustion heat.  Another subsystem is called secondary air injection wherein fresh air is injected into the exhaust stream to allow for a fuller combustion of exhaust gases.

This is a good detective starting place because of their attendant plumbing and routing all of which is located under-hood making them suspect. The aforementioned DIY search revealed the secondary air injection as a typical trouble spot and prone to early fan blade  failure so the investigation invited focus.

An electric air pump (2) that operates only after an engine cold start and ceases at warm-up (fitting the driver complaint scenario) draws under-hood air from behind its finned cover and pushes it under pressure through rubber hose (8) where it meets one-way valve (10). From there it directly enters an exhaust manifold depicted in the diagram by grey outline silhouette. Bolt (12) attaches the one-way valve to this manifold. The purpose of the valve is dual purpose: to allow air to pass into the exhaust manifold to mix with the exhaust therein but also to prevent the exhaust gas to reverse flow when the air pump is switched off. Hence one-way.

Remove the finned cover revealed a ‘smoking gun’ find. Underside was heavy moisture (a by-product of combustion), black soot, and grime — a dead giveaway. Further inspection with removal of the check valve revealed that it was possible to blow air through the valve in either direction without impediment and was therefore faulty.

Forensic Display: The valve body housing has been destructively separated to make visible the valve head which should ordinarily be in the closed position for this state. It nearly is, but observe the small piece of plastic debris (a single fan blade) wedged between the valve and the valve seat. This is the culprit. It is holding the valve head off of the sealing body in a stuck open position.

A new assembly has been sourced and ordered. This fix will restore operation and prevent the toxic stink.

Why was this only noticeable when the vehicle was motionless? The answer is that, thanks to aerodynamics, there is high air pressure at the base of the windshield. This is also the location of the cabin fresh air intake.  When moving at speed it was enough to eject the underhood fumes harmlessly beneath the car. When pulling to a stop warm air rising and depending on prevailing breeze, brought the odor topside and directly into the vent. PU

What to do you see here

cars,

This photograph is hand dated 1910. The Randrup family lived in Copenhagen (København) Denmark The letter K on the registration plate so designates. The owners hand draped over the front seat armrest and his shoe on the running board seem to be rather crudely inked out. (early days for photoshop)

The carbide headlamps used acetylene gas but the side marker lamps were oil burning and that may explain why the lense on the passenger side is blackened. It would have been used, as required, for street side parking during the night.

There’s a folding top but it’s a fair weather open car without windshield or side windows. I would say very low mileage based upon the state of clean and shine. See the messy bits on the pristine roadway substrate inside of the front year tire. I hope that this automobile wasn’t blamed. Good reason to check your shoes before coming indoors!

The 1910 Randrup family photo op featuring the  brass era touring car above has been identified. It was a difficult task because I only had the first 3 design letters visible on the radiator: “Ber” and come to think of it; that longhand script style was pixelated and no doubt in a foreign language to boot.

Typing just three letters into a Google Search did not result in a handy autofill suggestion! I did however manage to find a comprehensive list of makes whose name began with the letter B. Matching up the next two letters narrowed that list considerably and voila. After selecting a few of these near matches, comparing images of early cars, fender and radiator shapes I found a match. The dead ringer confirmation is the unique “B” signature script of the name on the radiator which was clear in other comparison photo records.

It’s a French made Berliet motorcar and as a company went on to a long history but one not well known in the USA — except for one obscurity. The Berliet design and manufacturing rights were licensed to the American Locomotive Company of New York. They attempted to capitalize on an American perceived exotic european excellence theme but note that the eye catching brass Berliet logotype on the radiator was struck.

1907 American Berliet

Under Pressure

boats,

or not…

pressure switch item from the shelf of items

Every item on my shelf of items has a story. This is an oil pressure transducer. Its design goal is to alert the operator, via red light and aural warning when there is no pressure. It is a 7 psi switch that taps into an engine’s oil gallery. Its default is closed meaning that when oil pressure is non existent it allows 12 volt current to complete a circuit and provide warning. If there is pressure the switch is open and therefore, no circuit. Everything is quiet and the machine in operation is assumed to be a-okay.

Tracing a route down the Savannah River on my way out to sea, I heard a chirping noise that turned out to be the alarm system just described. It wasn’t a full on signal just an indication that it was on the cusp of something. Imagine my concern. I reduced the throttle on my auxiliary diesel and the alarm came full on. Adding power and the alarm grew silent. It was unnerving, without an actual pressure gauge for verification, I couldn’t know whether, the engine was on its last legs or indication system anomaly.

I decided to error on the side of caution and discontinued engine usage, relying on the wind and sailpower to delivery me home. If the engine was to die it would perform a final task of delivering me the remaining few yards and into the waiting marina berth at end of journey.

The diesel ran fine when restarted for arrival and when shutdown safely back at home port. Further, the antagonizing low pressure warning from before never recurred.  Phew! I had been under pressure. Now I need to confirm if in fact the transducer switch had perished or was it trying to tell the truth.

There are just a few causes of low oil pressure:

  • Oil level extremely low
  • Oil viscosity very weak due to contamination and thinning
  • Engine wear tolerances usually bearings or oil pump

The oil quantity was easily ruled out as I use the dipstick check as a matter of pre-flight. The quality of the oil itself was a bit harder. There wasn’t any coolant mixed in so that was quickly discounted. I couldn’t be sure that diesel fuel wasn’t leaking into the crankcase. A laboratory oil analysis would be handy because all I could witness was slimy black ooze squeezed between fingers. That leaves the third bullet – this engine – which definitely qualifies. It has been in use for over 30 years and while loving cared for, it has aged.

Process of elimination: I pulled the oil filter and poured its contents into a plastic cup. I could have sent it off to a lab but I presented it to an experienced type in the boatyard facility for a free opinion. The pronouncement was plain ol’ used diesel crankcase oil. No unusual appearance or telltale odor.

That leaves the ultimate showdown — engine vs indication. I sourced a generic  pressure gauge that when fitted to the port where the [removed] transducer switch had lived, would solve the question once-and-for-all.

The TEST: Ran engine through various speed regimes. Starting cold and also running under load at normal operating temperature.

Initial observation is that the pressure transducer switch is suspect. All of the readings were well above the 7 PSI threshold of the switch. It will be replaced. The only troubling aspect were some of the erratic recordings. This may be because of the simple gauge utilized. I did see some spikes that couldn’t be accounted for.  In any event, 45 psi seems to be the average norm and an acceptable result.

Not completely convinced. Follows is a diagram of the internal pressure regulating valve. Has the appearances of a complex engineering diagram but in reality it’s just a spherical ball held against a relief orifice by a simple spring. 

This is such a basic design and would be a rare point of failure. It either works or it doesn’t but might be explanation for the slight variances or fluctuations. A quality gauge would have dampening built in as a feature to eliminate erratic needle movement.

The engine manual lists standard pressure range as 35.56 ~ 49.78 as spec.  I feel more confident after this test but it’s still on watch.  I will continue to monitor (under pressure) until full trust is restored.

vintage diesel YANMAR 3QM30 at work

Arrivals and Departures

flying

This is a push-pin map which displays all of the fly-in spots, in no particular order — airport destinations  that span the 43 years of my flying hobby / career.  Some were a one time hop; others were revisited on many occasions.

[available: full size presentation]
I can safely claim to have seen the USA — well, from an aerial perspective and the 679 local airports that are displayed herein. The most impressive thing, in my mind, is not places that I have visited but the many many airports that I did not! For proof of this just zoom out the map.
  • 12,152 logged flights, each with a takeoff and a landing 😉
  • 23,661 total flying hours

Voyages of the Talmid

adventure, boats

North Carolina / Georgia Loop

[available: full size presentation]

This 475 nm cruise was a mix of coastal offshore and the AICW. Each have challenges. They both offer scenic splendor with a bit of adventuring

Typically, the inside passage is a pleasant ride with smooth water and most would choose it for comfort. It is much slower because of its twists and turns. Due to lack of maneuvering space it can’t reliably be sailed and must be motored. In fact, the ICW is very narrow in most cases and a rigid course line must be strictly followed to avoid getting stuck in the mud (run aground). Further, it is generally unwise to traverse the ICW during darkness for it is difficult to spot hazards to navigation. With a bit of planning there are many option locations for stopping to rest and at days end.  I find the venue a nice change of pace and even though helmsmanship is very high workload it is likely that one will have a genuine restful night at anchor — just be mindful of the mosquitoes.

Coastal offshore is very different and you must have a stomach for it as there is constant motion depending on the sea state.  Aside from the continual action attributable to wave and swell, it can be somewhat relaxing and less stressful, your body does adapt to this environment. Glorious sailing is possible and one is able to minimize the use of noisy auxiliary diesel power. Talmid, with a displacement hull / full keel, is happiest in the deep blue and with shallows and bridge crossings not being a factor. With an adequate watch routine you needn’t make layovers and can track nonstop. If wind permits, follow a rhumbline course and the miles click by. The autopilot steers your course freeing the mind to keep tabs on the big picture and contemplate life.

 

Marine Carburetor Labyrinth

boats, cars

You’d think that a brand new marine carburetor would bolt on and function perfectly out of the box but I’m finding out that you have to fuss with it. I’m focusing on the Idle circuit because turning the Idle Mixture Screws is having no effect on my less than smooth running engine.

I’ve learned a few things from Randy, a good ol’ boy sharing his sense of experience on a Youtube channel. Studying the intricacies of the casting; all facets to figure the fuel trail and how it gets from here to there, I now know that there are dual routes. See if you are able to follow:

Fuel arriving from the Primary Float Bowl is flow limited by the Idle Feed Restriction (solid yellow arrow). The fuel is drawn upwards through an internal passageway (solid turquoise line arrow) to the top of a parallel downleg (dashed turquoise line arrow) to be split off to the Idle Feed Port and to the Idle Transition Slot. Small air is also  introduced via the Idle Air Bleed (solid yellow circle) to mix it up with the fuel traversing the downleg.

The dual pathway ports (dashed yellow arrow lines) deliver the the air/fuel emulsion to the Idle Feed Port and the Idle Transition Slot  in the throttle body below. The throttle body contains large butterfly valves that allow significantly more big air to mix and swirl making a combustible mixture. This [ stoichiometric ] ratio is roughly 15:1

What’s happening with my application is that the throttle valves are exposing too much of the Idle Transition Slot (lower image detail). This has the undesired effect of creating an excessively fuel rich mixture.  The Idle Feed Port is not in the game passing little or no air/fuel. The Idle Transition Slot is doing it all.  Allowing the throttle to close down further will hide most of the slot (upper image detail) The Idle Feed Port (the small black dot) will resume its function with the Idle Transition Slot properly obscured. The Idle Mixture Screw can then be brought to bear allowing for precise tuning.

Final consideration: Closing down the throttle valves will by nature reduces the air volume. The engine will stall. In order to restore adequate airflow, a hole (~.080″) must be drilled into each butterfly. It will be trial test with hole size until the ideal diameter is reached. Starting small, I want to get the engine idle RPM into a ballpark range. Fine RPM adjustment can be made with the Idle Speed set screw at the throttle linkage.

That concludes the custom setup mentioned in this post intro. Idle Mixture screws will be controlling at slow idle. The Idle Transition Slot will become effective once the throttle is part open. Keyword is transition.  A fuel main circuit gradually provides even more fuel as demand calls in a seamless progression from idle to full power. Keep it smooth.