Category Archives: cars

Chrome Top Tip

cars

Little chrome is to be found on newer cars. Porsche started a sporting trend a number of years ago with blacked out chrome trim. Other manufacturers, such as tuner AMG, adopted the theme as a cool new look  which style led to: monochrome. It helped that the abandonment of chromium saved money in the process. Eventually body trim, cladding, bumper covers and exterior pieces became plasticized and the chrome bits were  totally disused. As you may recall, the flamboyant use of chrome popularly peaked in the 1950’s. Even interiors and instrument panels enjoyed liberal usage. A topical issue was the glare and distraction when the sun angled just so.  Acres of chrome require maintenance upkeep.  This polishing technique may be of little value unless you are resurrecting an older car but is interesting even if you’re not because — who knew?
A number of youtube and forum tipsters advocate using Coca-Cola in lieu of water as an effective agent. Evidently the beverage contains phosphoric acid which aids in rust removal. Considering a messy clean up I went with plain water and a moderate amount of elbow grease.

Before…                            and After

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Minimum Fuel

cars

The “fuel gauge” in the EV indicated 3/4 which equated to 71 miles remaining. In everyone else’s petrol powered car, 71 miles left in the tank means the reserve fuel warning light is about to come on. No biggie if you’re only headed for the corner plaza or the gas station but a definite double think if you need to cross town and back. I can see that many trips would require planning and forethought, i.e. with the EV ‘can I make it there and back’. It’s complicated. Whereas a fuel powered car is easy to estimate with a known relatively consistent MPG rating, an EV is subject to additional variables. Static battery temps influenced by extreme ambient conditions can be a concern. Hills, AC or Heat, can cut the estimated range by half.

How many residual miles remaining on the indicator before things get serious. What is your comfort zone. The thing is, with a zero emissions vehicle there isn’t a gas engine. No backup limp home mode. When the energy is depleted that’s it. Call for a tow or carry a longish extension cord.

Until remote charging outposts proliferate I propose a business service which I will call: Battery Rescue. A mobile truck equipped with a fast charge (480v) system could be a phone call away. Help for those who misjudge or need peace of mind and preferable to suffering the indignity of a flatbed truck. Pricing tiers for 1x emergency or all the time subscription plan.

Range Anxiety

cars

We’ll call it: Battery Valet. At some point the battery pack in your EV will be quick changeable. Instead of enduring an overnight charge there will be a drive thru where you can swap out in just a few minutes. Good to go with a fresh battery. If you are local then just plug-in at home while you sleep. But if you are on a road trip you don’t want to rely on hit or miss parking with hook up umbilical. Arrive at your out of town destination layover and my service will retrieve your EV, renew its energy and return it to you topped off.

NISSAN LEAF

cars

I test drove the future, a zero emissions car, my first experience. Startup hints at uniqueness. There is a keyless button labeled Start which energizes the instrument display screens and radio and environmental systems come to life. I wanted to focus on the drive so I turned all that other stuff off. A diminutive little knob (switch) selects PNDR. Relaxing foot pressure on the brake and the vehicle starts to creep just as a car with an automatic transmission would. Of course this is a software function (concession) in the EV which makes you feel more at home. Acceleration can be brisk if you like and it is erie that there is no vibration, no noise or commotion, just a soft whir as motor torque pushes you back in your seat. Quite satisfying. As speed reached 35+ mph tire noise masks sounds from the electrics. The only ECO skill to learn is early deceleration and planning using regenerative braking which will recover energy that would ordinarily waste as heat.

The Leaf Is not a soul inspiring machine. It is very appliance like and the body, while ergonomic, has the look of a grocery getter. Perhaps a Tesla Model S would add sex appeal to the equation.

soft top resto

cars,

Not exactly an easy DIY, in fact there was a skull & crossbones kind of warning to amateurs enclosed with the packing! There were no installation instructions included with the new top but fortunately there have been some ‘gone before me‘ who’ve posted walk throughs. I was grateful for the hints and spoilers. The most challenging, apart from remembering in which order to re-assemble the interior, was self learning the fundamentals of the Rivet fastener. Another bewildering moment was a ‘fish out of water‘ visit to a (women’s) fabric shop to procure new elastic material for the frame bows.Three days into the project and the new canvas is in place and may actually keep seats dry.

put it in clutch

cars,

Too late. I splurged for an all new replacement Clutch Master Cylinder and installed. Out of curiosity the original unit was disassembled for inspection. Its machined cylinder bore ( 5/8″ ) had no corrosion and was therefore in fair condition. The residual fluid however was filthy black with contamination. The annular lip seals on the piston plunger were likely perished and my thinking is that I could have replaced these and saved the core unit. It may present a small challenge to find these small tapered sealing lip rubber bits. The pictured piston assembly resembles (copies?) that of a type of piston and valve frequently seen for early British Cars made by Dunlop and Girling. One closer look of this piston notes some scuffing. A proper rebuild would require honing the bore. Previously skeptical of dealer recommendations for annual brake fluid changes, cooling system flushes and similar ilk; I now have first hand evidence for the justification. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and thus the degradation. Why not silicon based DOT 5 instead, which is hydrophobic? That is another debate. Perhaps the *new* complete assembly was the path of least resistance after all.

Lincoln LS Brake Job

cars

No need to pay an automotive service center specialist the big bucks. This is maintenance that can be done in the garage. The local auto parts store has the replacement pads and special tools. Safety stands are necessary since the vehicle will be raised and the wheels removed. Supporting the vehicle with a floor jack is not recommended. Before lifting use your tire iron to loosen slightly the wheel lug nuts. The torque required to break them free will cause wheel rotation unless the weight of the vehicle rests upon it. Continue reading…

Changing Lincoln LS Brake Pads

cars
There are two bolts to remove which will free the caliper and provide access to the brake pads themselves. A 12mm socket will fit the lower bolt but for the upper the alloy suspension arm interferes. Use a 12mm box wrench instead. These two bolts may be overly snug so a few hammer taps on the arm of the tool simulates that of an impact gun. Using arm strength in constant pulling or pushing force may round off the bolt head just before you scrape your knuckles. Set the removed bolts aside.
The caliper slides outward now free of its retaining bracket. Some seesaw wriggling is usually necessary to slide away the caliber because of interference fit. This brake caliper assembly includes the hydraulic piston(s) and still attached is a hydraulic hose and a wire link to the ABS speed sensor at the hub. These umbilicals can be damaged by rough handling, twisting or dangling. The old pads will be loose but left behind still hugging the rotor disc.
Fashion a wire clothes hangar or length of string to support the weight of the caliber. This will free your hands and prevent damage to the brake hose. The upper suspension support arm provides a handy support anchor.
Some thought pertaining to the condition of the brake rotors should be taken. If the rotors are warped they must be removed and trued on a lathe machine. Note also that a disc rotor does lose thickness over time. A width measurement check will determine if it is within minimum wear tolerance. To avoid any concern the rotor can be replaced with new.
Your brake pad kit box may contain new spring clips which slide into place. If not, the old ones are generally reusable on condition. Copy the clip orientation from that of the removed pads.
The new pads lay into place one on each side of the rotor disc. Unfortunately the caliper can not just be put back into place as simply as it was pulled away. The new pads are much thicker than the worn ones.
To make the calipers “fit again” the extended pistons must be retracted into the caliper.
The most elegant way to re-compress them is with a special caliper tool that the auto parts store will happily loan. There are assorted sizes in the kit depending on your application. This kit really takes the effort out of a necessary task especially for doing the rear brakes which require that the piston be screwed inward on account of the internal parking brake design.
Turning the handle does the trick. The other piston visible has already been pushed home. Movement of the piston(s) in this direction will displace brake fluid.
Remove the cap from the underhood brake fluid reservoir to determine if there is sufficient room for brake fluid rise as you retract the caliper piston(s). Place an old cotton undershirt or the like over the opening to absorb any overfull spills if necessary. Take care not to allow lint or foreign material to enter the reservoir opening. Spilled fluid is harmful to the paint finish.
With the pistons fully pressed back into the caliper housing the caliper will slide back over the new pads. Pushing down slightly on the caliper assembly will squeeze those brake pad spring clips allowing the caliper retaining bolts to find their female threaded counterparts in the abutment bracket. Snug these bolts but do not over tighten. Don’t neglect to reinstall the fluid reservoir cap. To complete the job you must “pump the brake pedal” to remove the free play between caliper pistons and pads. There will be little or no stopping ability otherwise and could lead to unpleasant surprise. Test drive to check for proper operation including a “panic stop” to assure that the ABS functions.

pilgrimage

cars

We went to see the cars on display at the show and, as it happened, this 3rd Annual 2009 Historic Occoneechee-Orange Speedway “Celebration of the Automobile” Car Show & Racers Reunion took place at a location that NASCAR devotees revere as holy ground.The old speedway site features an oval dirt track which traces its beginnings back to the inaugural 1949 race season for the franchise and is now, in fact, considered to be a historical preservation. The dirt track by now is only partially visible because the infield (and outfields) are completely overgrown with tall pines and woods. There was a crumbling concession stand that they lingered over. Only a broken foundation and a rusty pop cooler were visible in the remains. A section of cement grandstand remains in decay and it was amusing to see the a fore mentioned race fans taking a moment to sit down on them contemplative, solemn and introspect seeing and hearing in their imagination the cars roaring round and round.

Lost in the Translation

cars, computers

The Google Voice service transcribes voice mail messages ( by machine ) which can be somewhat off:

“This is James a catholic area calling let you know that your car needs 8 number is that it is not opening and closing properly parts and labor to your place with them. That is about 481. Give me a call back. 555-2036. Thank you.”

I get the gist. Thankfully Google has a Play Message Back link with the real deal.