Category Archives: adventure

Lost Comm

…aviators jargon for communication interruption.  There are procedures which  must be followed in the event of lost comm for safety of flight and search and rescue. 

Sailing across the Gulf of Mexico with our delorme inreach we dropped of the face of the earth; or so it appeared to those following our progress back home. Normally our sat comm device would relay our geo coordinates every 2 hours posting a bread crumb trail to a web based map. We had the ability to send|receive 160 character text messages too and although it appeared to us that our mapping and messaging was functional outbound as it had been for several days since the beginning of our trip, we began receiving unusual inbound messages such as: “okay you guys, if we don’t hear back from you by 6pm we are calling the Coast Gaurd!”

No, something was amiss. I’m sure it was a problem at delorme; an IT desk unmanned; it was the Memorial holiday weekend… At the time however we were thinking the problem was on our end. We tried a soft re-set (turning it off and then on again) which is usually restorative. No change. Drilling down into a settings menu we found another option — RESET the device. Without much forethought we executed which turned out to be unfortunate. Our device was wiped clean on top of which the startup prompt was requiring a re activation through the delorme.com website. Ooops.  How could we possibly!? 

As it so happens, and news to us, there is a cellular network in the Gulf. In fact, it was one of the first (27 years ago) and quite expansive (100,000 sq. miles). Looking anxiously at my cell phone and where you would expect to see NO SERVICE, we were several hundred mile from land after all, I saw posted an unusual: NO NETWORK accompanied by 1 or 2 bars. I phoned home matter of factly, and panic defused, described how to jump start our dead device. Back in business. 

We soon sailed beyond this phantom cellular signal, grateful that it had saved the day minimizing the  stress and anxiety for all concerned. Astonishingly, Roaming Charges have yet to appear on my monthly statement. 

mal de mer

Somewhat unpleasant, it affects some people more than others. With concerns, as I was always the one in the SaturdaySki Bus who usually succumbed, I found out a few things. 

The nervous system when receiving conflicting inputs from eyes, inner ears and other sensors triggers a reaction one and the same, believing that the body has injested poison.  God bless it.  

The body has adaptive powers, thankfully and the queasiness eventually dissipates or so they encourage. In my case, and this is considered par for the course, about 48 hours.  I tried using a Prescription Scopolamine transdermal patch behind the ear which seemed to help somewhat but the honest cure is to endure.  The body becomes used to and adjusts to the motion. On day 3 offshore, I had my sea legs finally. In fact I could perform normal task like reading or galley work without concern. 

At one point I faced an advanced real test: Our boat, assuming a significant angle of lean while on port tack spilled the contents (gravity rules) of a bookcase shelf on the high side clear across the saloon to the other. That would be our beer bottle(s) meant for celebration at journeys end… (Don’t Drink WHILE Boating) and some of them were smashed during the crashing transfer. It was middle of the night, cabin lights dim, and imperative that the broken shards be disposed of. The space reeking like a frat house on a Friday Night, was hot and humid and still halfway on its ear – –  motion on. Since I had improperly stowed the goods I took to the mop up and survived the ordeal. It was after task that I realized that I hadn’t been phased. 

So there’s hope for those of us who don’t automatically take to seafaring. BTW, when Calling to Neptune over the side. Direct things well away or at least be ready with a wash sown bucket follow up. The contents of ones stomach reacts with the [fiberglass] gel coat and it’s a bitch to buff out after the fact!

Wrecked at the Finish Line

After 4 (uneventful) days offshore, we motored the arrival for the last mile or so in late afternoon sun. The desire was to find and secure our berth in the marina before losing the light.  In this pursuit we were on track and feeling good about all that we had accomplished during our long sail. Fenders deployed, mooring line pre-rigged; we eased past the last channel marker before turning in. The marina is very tight quarters for maneuvering and with a light skiff with outboard coming out of our lane I needed to delay in order to allow him to exit. Selecting neutral and then reverse was the proper action but then surprise. Ineffective reverse. Transmission problem? Our trajectory is aiming us at a transient catamaran moored to a side dock and we are still making way. Reverse gear is making a dreadful sound and although speed is next to nothing we bounce off of the cat. About to ricochet off the fuel dock behind us I select forward gear and surprise, it too is gone. How could this happen? We were all good for days and then at this critical juncture — hell handed to me in a hand basket. How can this be? This was not the grand finale I foresaw.

IMG_3014

[damage: apart from my pride — this crease in a shroud turnbuckle on the other boat]

So, a glorious conclusion was not to be and instead turned into a story to tell. Luckily there was neither wind nor adverse current and having rubbed up against the fuel dock and with the very limited propulsion, I was able to get a line on and secured. We called it a day and spent the night. I just needed to check one thing. I stripped my shirt, and donned a skin diving mask and went over the side. I wanted to have a look at the prop and discovered that there was nothing wrong with the engine or transmission…

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[fishnet encounter]

The prop was fouled. Evidently the netting debris had wrapped up on the shaft and aft of the prop blades but when reversed slid forward to tangle and gum up the works. Too big a job for my Leatherman, to deep, dark, and I can’t hold my breath that long, a Diver was called and he cleared the mess that you see here.

Who would know? The takeaway is check your brakes (reverse in this case) before entering the traffic pattern.

One hand for the ship, One for Yourself

I had heard this old adage. I knew it. I learned it (again) the hard way. I had made my way aft and arrived at the port side winch which had my full attention. Knees were fully bent in the squat position and balancing on both feet. At the same moment that I reached out for the jib sheet the boat rolled. My hands came up with air and I tumbled over backwards feet out in front. Hard corners of the companionway hatch met the back of my scull with a wallop,
18772155400_e66c575bb6_nthat I won’t forget…and neither will my crew — imagining various recovery scenarios and outcomes!

Hardheaded that I am, I knew I was okay. Only the scars remain.

Lesson learned: …which may derive from the days of sailing ships, when working high in the mast rigging and before the advent of modern safety harnesses; it was an essential precaution that each sailor should hold on with one hand at all times, while working with the other.

This gave rise to the idiom “one hand for yourself, one for the ship” This saying remains excellent advice.

 

The San Juans

Wikipedia historic primer here — now it is our turn. Last year it was the British Virgin Islands in tropical water and sultry wet. I felt time for something polar opposite. The Pacific NW is a shift from that. July August is prime time because the weather is so predictable. The marine forecasters CYA with predictions of winds 10 to 15 knots becoming 10 to 20 in the afternoon. But, the most we saw was 10 knots usually averaging 5-6.

Wind waves in the straight on the return and most noticible because we were running downwind so the boat is bit rolly pollie. Relative felt about 3 knots. In fact the boat was only making 3.5 knots at best due to the light air. When the boat speed fell below that my crew felt like we were making little progress. However with help from 1 1/2 to 2 knots do tidal current we were actually making 4.4 – 5 knots across the ground. Aviators call this tailwind. There must be a similar seafarers term for favorable going with the flow.

Fishing is a challenge not the mechanics but the hostile obstacles the regulators place hoops to dis suede. Licenses are fish breed specific, time of year, specific days, season. To add insult to injury Spencer’s crab ring disappeared. Scoundrel or currents?

put a lime in the coconut

We are staying in a sportsman’s bungalow tonight, our final staging only 800 meters from Marina Apooiti. ‘iti’ means small but the basin is filled with expensive yachts, one of which will be ours when we begin our sail away tomorrow. Our layover includes a Transfer, so after the inter-island hop and while waiting for our gear at the claim area I scan anxiously for someone holding a sign. There are none but then a guy from the small crowd of greeters appears and introduces himself as our driver and then I realize that it was I with the “sign”. He merely focused on the only non-Polynesian cluster of 5 in the room and connection made.

Our accommodation is primitive but a good attitude adjust from the luxury resort life from which we are weaning. She who must be obeyed’s keen eye laser targeted a lizard in the rafter and wisely decided not to alarm the other travelers by sharing the find. The Coconut trees are each banded with smooth aluminum sheething to prevent furry creatures with long tails or crabs from climbing but I note that the grassy grounds are rife with burrows. Hmmmm, best not make this a group topic either.

S’Man tries to beat, bash, split, or otherwase penetrate a fallen coconut. We decide we need an Internet connection where the YouTube would show the method. I guess the weaning process has some way to go.

Daring Day for Up

vantage point Not exactly a bosun’s chair but a harness that we lined with galley towels (to ease the chafe) provided a thrill. A bowline knot at the loose end of a Spinnaker Halyard was the other part of the apparatus that took us aloft. A deck hand cranked a winch grinder, another guarded a mast mounted cam lock preventer.

First Day to the Max

We were losing the Sun. We’d sworn an Oath with the charter company not to sail at night yet here we were suddenly determining the official time of sunset and performing mental time and distance mathematics.

Completing the skippers’ briefing ahead of schedule and good to go we cleared the Apooiti Marina and outside moorings and set sail. We were mindful of adjacent Raiatea Airport’s clear zone — marked by yellow restricted buoys guaranteeing landing aircraft an approach free of our 62′ mast. Otherwise we had fun on a zig zag course toward our first obstacle challenge: Grand Banc Central, a reef in the lagoon marked with Cardinals. Rather than beating through the narrow Passage Tearearahi we ran engines and got through without muss. Uturoa was our first point of interest and after locating the visitor dock we made fast for a couple of hours. We split groups for some last minute provision hunting and to hike a 1000′ vertical rise (Mont Tapioi) for a vista reward.

Hot and a bit parched at the conclusion of our trek we detoured for ice cream cones in Uturoa and in hindsight, we squandered time (daylight) in its pursuit. Our overnight anchorage was short range but we were now pressed to make it in time. With the sun disappearing behind Taha’a but our Motu (Mahaea) just beyond Passe Toahotu in view we raced the failing light arriving just in the nic.

BVI — return to Tortola

The weather had become unsettled yesterday as we ended our sail for the afternoon. There were distant storms and associated thunder could be heard. However we were safely able to gain the shelter of Little Harbor, our intended stop, and enjoy the rest of the evening dinning a shore at Harris’ Place before returning to LILIA when rain finally arrived.

Spencer had the idea to stand bare chested in the cockpit receiving the full effect of the falling moisture. Call it a fresh water rinse off but I think his plan was to enjoy the sensation of cold — something hard to achieve in the tropics. I joined him but less boldly by donning Dede’s new (and graciously lent) yellow rain slicker. I stood there Capt’ Ahab ish, even taking a lap around slippery deck during the pelting getting an idea what it would be like to adjust rigging or change a sail in the dark harshness.

A personal achievement for me earlier was to set sail SOLO and trim them during our departure from Green Cay. Realize that Spencer was ably standing by and that instead of lashing down the wheel I was able to use the auto helm which maintained a roughly into the wind heading as I raised the main. The jib has roller furling which greatly simplified that task. Even still, juggling the halyard and lines is serious multitasking single handed. Yo ho ho ho a sailors life for me…

Spencer and I tried the Scuba at a site called The Playground but it was rather boorish. After awhile one reef begins to look like the other reef. I’ve been quietly hoping to see some really big fish but the water is probably too shallow. We did see some nudists from another charter “free” diving as we flippered past. Or maybe she was just a mermaid?

I’m starting to become this sea life style. Time for this one to come home!

and now for something completely different

Decided to try my land legs. Jeff and Spencer both say so-long, “you have fun on your jog”, as they bee-line for Foxy’s, the nearest watering hole from the dinghy dock. Consulting a google map my route looked rather flat and benign but in reality it wasn’t a jog. Not even a walk; it was a huff and puff steep incline hike. Surfaced and maintained road ended abruptly although still passible with a sport ute in low gear under dry conditions. I had the hillsides to myself. Just me and the wild goats. I was surprised to encounter them as were they and they took off like deer. That was fine by me. For a brief standoff moment as both sides analyzed threat, I wasn’t sure that one of them dominant and fearless might not charge and headbutt me off the hill.

The restauranteur, at the Ali Baba’s described how she’d like to capture some if these and make use. I explained that would be futile. I couldn’t even close in for a camera shot.

We are in the harbor after sailing most of yesterday. Upon arriving at Jost Van Dyke, the 3rd largest in the BVI chain we made directly for White Bay named for its sand beach of the same color. They don’t allow dinghy boats on the beachhead so the only way, and this is their claim to fame, is to swim for it. The destination: The Soggy Dollar Bar. Can you guess why they call it that? We empty everything else from our clothing pockets and off we went. Spencer sampled their famous ‘Pain Killer’. Word has it that 3.2 of these drinks equals — naked. No debauchery but it was the closest to Disney’s Pirates of the Caribbean thus far.

Whelp, time to rustle up some breakfast and today one without the clean-up ordeal. We are lazy islanders today staying put. Well, perhaps a Dive excursion for sure.