I’d released the counter springs on the hinges decades ago and so the hood would no longer hold itself up; not without a prop rod. The springs were tensioned to their weakest setting and I knew not how to increase it. Tools on hand at the time were a pair of vice grips with bailing wire; good enough to release a spring but clumsy. Coil springs have stored energy and can cause injury when mishandled. Uncertain about how to [properly] go about it and a bit apprehensive the job was put off. Fast Forward today to the Internet Age; a Youtube hit gave inspiration.
If the springs could be extended and placed in the hinge’s more extreme setting slot then the increased force under tension would correctly balance the open hood. Unfortunately, the size of each individual spring (one per hinge) was such that mere muscle power would not overcome the difficult flexing required to get that job done. Leverage was needed.
rope line loop used to coax the spring
A couple of Ratchet Tie-Down Trailer Straps provided the persuasion. An concrete post in the garage floor lent an immovable anchor point. A second strap maintained a proper pull angle since the post was off center.
ratchets serve as a Come Along
The ratchet acting as a winch provided the grunt and the ear of the spring was positioned adjacent to its proper location. With care and finesse the spring could then be hooked over the tang and into the correct slot on the hinge mount.
I have to give thumbs-up acknowledgement to the Youtuber DIY; he sure made it look easy. Well, it’s never easy but a least now finally — no more prop rod! A bucket list project perceived as insurmountable all these years gets resolved.
Self driving cars are a few years away. Letting Autopilot take control is like watching an inexperienced beginner on a learner permit. Fortunately, as a monitor (with skin at stake) you can gently intervene or abruptly take-over if the performance is not to one’s liking.
Current state of the art tech with Hardware 2.5 does quite the job centering the vehicle in the lane and maintaining proper distance from the car ahead with adaptive speed. Today, on an extended drive, I was able to sample test the latest enhancement: Navigate on Autopilot (beta) which further extends Autopilot.
Following GPS guidance Navigate on Autopilot suggests lane changes required for the route. Using cameras and forward radar it also recommends an open lane when overtaking a slower vehicle. You, as second pilot, acknowledge the suggestion and give permission with a tap on either stalk on the steering column (ignore is the default). In actuality you are babysitting the proceedings — and like a hawk.
There isn’t, nor should there be any trust expectation between you and the machine. The manufacturer (and his lawyer) feels the same way. Beyond any disclaimer you need to be attentive. The reason is called the automation hand-over. The autopilot can, after the briefest of warning, signal bailout and return control. If your head is not in the game this transfer could be messy. So, autopilot continually confirms that you are standing by. If you’re not detected actually holding the steering wheel you are politely prodded before it becomes serious. The system shuts off / locks out an abuser ignoring any cautionary nags.
Proper technique: the weight and friction from one hand is sufficient to apply “slight turning pressure” which is the assurance that Autopilot is looking for
The autosteer function continually saws back and forth ever so minutely seemingly testing to see that it has not been abandoned. A sensitive passenger may perceive the motion but in comparison to earlier iterations it is fairly smooth going.
Hardware 1.0 was primitive as autosteer would ping pong on secondary roadways hugging the inside line or wandering inebriated opposite. Still, it was exciting to experience this alpha software. Realizing that the future had arrived inspired anticipation for FSD
Lane keeping on today’s trip was quite good during the Interstate portion. There were some, shades of yore, one spurious blip of regen, a wander noted in the tight radii of an exit ramp. A little faith was required but no boundaries were exceeded. I did wonder what any closely following driver might be thinking.
whoa boy (too wild)
This happened… A mowing tractor pedaling the shoulder as fast as he could go — hazard flashers blinking but protruding somewhat into the right lane. Autopilot decelerated for the detected obstacle as it should do. I switched off auto steering and moved to the left lane to pass which was occupied by a truck just ahead. During the maneuver, just as I started over Autopilot saw daylight between Mower and Truck and (adaptive cruise control still engaged) accelerated harshly. Splitting lanes like some deathwish motorcyclist would have been a bit too sporty.
push nudge (too timid)
Autopilot slows as necessary for a vehicle ahead which is turning right onto a crossroad. Ordinarily, a driver can safely resume speed accelerating in anticipation of the other vehicle clearing. Autopilot delays this for a count of 3 before getting on with it. It seems like an eternity because know that the driver(s) behind have lost patience.
advanced nav (passed)
One part of the route today is considered tricky even for an experienced operator. I have traversed it many times and decided to let the student driver have a go. The course begins with an off ramp exit, followed by a double merge, another exit, a sweeping loop where traffic sometimes can crawl or even halt, and then yet another merge — all rapid fire. Autopilot has to steer navigate and sequence with the merging vehicles. It’s the full deal. Tight choreography. Autopilot will slow to make a merge opportunity happen but doesn’t offensively overtake for a cut-in.
As blue traffic autopilot performed a weave merge with cyan traffic. Green dots depict where autopilot asks permission to exit route leg or for the navigational lane changes.
Eventually cars will computer interface with each other and the dance sequence will be safe and carefree. Until then, it’s student learning so; mind how you go. It’s early days yet.
Old cars had running boards. A vestige from this bygone era, the modern car door sill is nothing more than a decorative piece to prevent one’s shoes from scuffing the body painted entry threshold. This plate is likely to be of plastic assembly with the make or logo embossed. On the exterior side is the tarmac and the other side is the carpet. When shut the door covers the sill plate.
The door sill/scuff plate on ‘Ponton‘ era Mercedes-Benz were not that far removed from the old running boards. They could be described as internal running boards as they were enveloped by body when the closed door overlapped them. They are really not wide enough to stand upon nor were they so intended but there they are welcoming gateway to driver and passenger. From the illustration below observe that the vertical chrome trim plate and an aluminium surround piece serves to offer scuff protection. The flat sill spans between them.
perished mat
The original rubber sill (above) is aged and brittle. It has seen better days. The refurbishment project was initiated some years back (pre-internet) where it stalled due to non-availability of replacement parts. Recently, I began the search anew. The problem is that there is no longer much demand for this style ribbed rubber material. What I could find was in black only or some egregious industrial offering. The pursuit picked up when I found “grey mat for Mercedes”. ‘Imported’ from the limited description sounded promising but the bulk size and color were not and were likely for some later model.
new mat in place
Finally, success! An outfit in Germany called Niemöller Ersatzteile für Mercedes-Benz Veteranen seemed to have what I sought. I ordered their self-described hellbeige ribbed rubber with high expectations and was not let down. The material was rolled in bulk so a paper template had to be drawn and the mat trimmed. The new piece was cemented down after the fasteners removed and the shiny bits cleared for access.
Factory labor intensive, I counted 15 individual screws for each door entry (for which holes also had to be drilled). I don’t suppose that they had bots or even electric screwdrivers to speed that process. A contrast in manufacturing technique, today’s sill plate application must take the assembly line person mere seconds to snap in to place.
Full disclosure: The Before picture was taken indoors whereas the After is using natural light, thus the paint color variation.
Opaque / Clear
The Zuffenhausen factory specified a tough clear UV protective coating which has performed well for the past 13 years of exposure. However it’s a tough environment and these lense covers are only plastic afterall.
A polishing kit from 3M was purchased to rejuvenate the current cloudy finish. Using my low speed electric drill, the supplied buffer wheel attachment and abrasive media, pits and scratches were incrementally removed. I deviated from the prescribed and used some 320 grit to begin with. This made quick work of the original factory coating, totally removing it. Naked uncoated, stages of number 500, 800, 3000 (wet) progressed. Finally the kit included a liquid rubbing compound that completed the goal of clarity. The surface is now quite smooth.
Routine application of a formulated polish with water resistant polymers such as PlastX or toothpaste (!) should offer protection from this point onward.
What was meant to be a grand outing, taking family on a Saturday sailboat ride turned out to be a “3 hour tour” instead. No not island shipwrecked; we all returned to the dock intact — but not before an encounter with a dredger train of barges, a soft grounding, a crab pot entanglement, engine breakdown, 2 rescue tows and a mangled boat hook! It was a chain of events. One thing upon another, and then another and then…
It’s never opportune timing to have mechanical failure but in this case we were very close to home. However, the marina is tight quarters and their rules forbid maneuvering under sail anyway. So we got professionally alongside towed on the hip. Here was the culprit:
Riser – ruptures after years in service
I found that this is actually a common failure. It is unsuspecting before it happens because the heavy iron casting rusts from the inside. There may be light surface corrosion on the outside or even shiny paint hiding what lurks. (A prudent Sailor will think to change this part out before it expires.) The failure symptom was a marked change in engine tone. Raising the hood revealed noxious black fumes and water pumping into the bilge. Gnarly.
The exhaust mixing elbow (aka Riser) is a short length special pipe between the engine manifold and the heavy black hose clamped on the lower end. Hot gasses are joined with cooling water and delivered under pressure of combustion toward being muffled and properly discharged overboard.
Spiffy Replacement
This new custom fabrication is stainless steel and will give good endurance. Should be good to go! I only need now to convince my guests to come along and try boating again. Please come back!
Ordinarily the N2, O2, H2O, CO2, CO, NOx… and other gases exit the tailpipe but driver complaints indicated that exhaust smells were entering the interior.
It was somewhat of a mystery because noxious odors would only manifest after the engine had been operating for awhile (warmed-up) and only when the vehicle was stationary (idling at a stop sign). Common deduction was that the emissions were drawn in through the fresh air ventilation system; so possibly emanating from under-hood? DIY Forum searches revealed no symptomatic similarities unfortunately, but it was revealed that not all exhaust is directed to the tailpipe at least not immediately.
Inner workings to help achieve automobile emissions standards include things like exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) which is exactly as it sounds. A portion of spent gas is returned to the combustion chamber to act as absorbents of combustion heat. Another subsystem is called secondary air injection wherein fresh air is injected into the exhaust stream to allow for a fuller combustion of exhaust gases.
This is a good detective starting place because of their attendant plumbing and routing all of which is located under-hood making them suspect. The aforementioned DIY search revealed the secondary air injection as a typical trouble spot and prone to early fan blade failure so the investigation invited focus.
An electric air pump (2) that operates only after an engine cold start and ceases at warm-up (fitting the driver complaint scenario) draws under-hood air from behind its finned cover and pushes it under pressure through rubber hose (8) where it meets one-way valve (10). From there it directly enters an exhaust manifold depicted in the diagram by grey outline silhouette. Bolt (12) attaches the one-way valve to this manifold. The purpose of the valve is dual purpose: to allow air to pass into the exhaust manifold to mix with the exhaust therein but also to prevent the exhaust gas to reverse flow when the air pump is switched off. Hence one-way.
Remove the finned cover revealed a ‘smoking gun’ find. Underside was heavy moisture (a by-product of combustion), black soot, and grime — a dead giveaway. Further inspection with removal of the check valve revealed that it was possible to blow air through the valve in either direction without impediment and was therefore faulty.
Forensic Display: The valve body housing has been destructively separated to make visible the valve head which should ordinarily be in the closed position for this state. It nearly is, but observe the small piece of plastic debris (a single fan blade) wedged between the valve and the valve seat. This is the culprit. It is holding the valve head off of the sealing body in a stuck open position.
A new assembly has been sourced and ordered. This fix will restore operation and prevent the toxic stink.
Why was this only noticeable when the vehicle was motionless? The answer is that, thanks to aerodynamics, there is high air pressure at the base of the windshield. This is also the location of the cabin fresh air intake. When moving at speed it was enough to eject the underhood fumes harmlessly beneath the car. When pulling to a stop warm air rising and depending on prevailing breeze, brought the odor topside and directly into the vent. PU
This photograph is hand dated 1910. The Randrup family lived in Copenhagen (København) Denmark The letter K on the registration plate so designates. The owners hand draped over the front seat armrest and his shoe on the running board seem to be rather crudely inked out. (early days for photoshop)
The carbide headlamps used acetylene gas but the side marker lamps were oil burning and that may explain why the lense on the passenger side is blackened. It would have been used, as required, for street side parking during the night.
There’s a folding top but it’s a fair weather open car without windshield or side windows. I would say very low mileage based upon the state of clean and shine. See the messy bits on the pristine roadway substrate inside of the front year tire. I hope that this automobile wasn’t blamed. Good reason to check your shoes before coming indoors!
The 1910 Randrup family photo op featuring the brass era touring car above has been identified. It was a difficult task because I only had the first 3 design letters visible on the radiator: “Ber” and come to think of it; that longhand script style was pixelated and no doubt in a foreign language to boot.
Typing just three letters into a Google Search did not result in a handy autofill suggestion! I did however manage to find a comprehensive list of makes whose name began with the letter B. Matching up the next two letters narrowed that list considerably and voila. After selecting a few of these near matches, comparing images of early cars, fender and radiator shapes I found a match. The dead ringer confirmation is the unique “B” signature script of the name on the radiator which was clear in other comparison photo records.
It’s a French made Berliet motorcar and as a company went on to a long history but one not well known in the USA — except for one obscurity. The Berliet design and manufacturing rights were licensed to the American Locomotive Company of New York. They attempted to capitalize on an American perceived exotic european excellence theme but note that the eye catching brass Berliet logotype on the radiator was struck.
Every item on my shelf of items has a story. This is an oil pressure transducer. Its design goal is to alert the operator, via red light and aural warning when there is no pressure. It is a 7 psi switch that taps into an engine’s oil gallery. Its default is closed meaning that when oil pressure is non existent it allows 12 volt current to complete a circuit and provide warning. If there is pressure the switch is open and therefore, no circuit. Everything is quiet and the machine in operation is assumed to be a-okay.
Tracing a route down the Savannah River on my way out to sea, I heard a chirping noise that turned out to be the alarm system just described. It wasn’t a full on signal just an indication that it was on the cusp of something. Imagine my concern. I reduced the throttle on my auxiliary diesel and the alarm came full on. Adding power and the alarm grew silent. It was unnerving, without an actual pressure gauge for verification, I couldn’t know whether, the engine was on its last legs or indication system anomaly.
I decided to error on the side of caution and discontinued engine usage, relying on the wind and sailpower to delivery me home. If the engine was to die it would perform a final task of delivering me the remaining few yards and into the waiting marina berth at end of journey.
The diesel ran fine when restarted for arrival and when shutdown safely back at home port. Further, the antagonizing low pressure warning from before never recurred. Phew! I had been under pressure. Now I need to confirm if in fact the transducer switch had perished or was it trying to tell the truth.
There are just a few causes of low oil pressure:
Oil level extremely low
Oil viscosity very weak due to contamination and thinning
Engine wear tolerances usually bearings or oil pump
The oil quantity was easily ruled out as I use the dipstick check as a matter of pre-flight. The quality of the oil itself was a bit harder. There wasn’t any coolant mixed in so that was quickly discounted. I couldn’t be sure that diesel fuel wasn’t leaking into the crankcase. A laboratory oil analysis would be handy because all I could witness was slimy black ooze squeezed between fingers. That leaves the third bullet – this engine – which definitely qualifies. It has been in use for over 30 years and while loving cared for, it has aged.
Process of elimination: I pulled the oil filter and poured its contents into a plastic cup. I could have sent it off to a lab but I presented it to an experienced type in the boatyard facility for a free opinion. The pronouncement was plain ol’ used diesel crankcase oil. No unusual appearance or telltale odor.
That leaves the ultimate showdown — engine vs indication. I sourced a generic pressure gauge that when fitted to the port where the [removed] transducer switch had lived, would solve the question once-and-for-all.
The TEST: Ran engine through various speed regimes. Starting cold and also running under load at normal operating temperature.
Initial observation is that the pressure transducer switch is suspect. All of the readings were well above the 7 PSI threshold of the switch. It will be replaced. The only troubling aspect were some of the erratic recordings. This may be because of the simple gauge utilized. I did see some spikes that couldn’t be accounted for. In any event, 45 psi seems to be the average norm and an acceptable result.
Not completely convinced. Follows is a diagram of the internal pressure regulating valve. Has the appearances of a complex engineering diagram but in reality it’s just a spherical ball held against a relief orifice by a simple spring.
This is such a basic design and would be a rare point of failure. It either works or it doesn’t but might be explanation for the slight variances or fluctuations. A quality gauge would have dampening built in as a feature to eliminate erratic needle movement.
The engine manual lists standard pressure range as 35.56 ~ 49.78 as spec. I feel more confident after this test but it’s still on watch. I will continue to monitor (under pressure) until full trust is restored.
This is a push-pin map which displays all of the fly-in spots, in no particular order — airport destinations that span the 43 years of my flying hobby / career. Some were a one time hop; others were revisited on many occasions.
I can safely claim to have seen the USA — well, from an aerial perspective and the 679 local airports that are displayed herein. The most impressive thing, in my mind, is not places that I have visited but the many many airports that I did not! For proof of this just zoom out the map.
12,152 logged flights, each with a takeoff and a landing 😉
